This review was written in 2014, when Vignole was still open. They closed soon after, unfortunately. But part of the point of this website is to archive my writing, and I like this one. Here we go:

Where do I start with this place I love so much?

Let’s do the attention grabbing thing first: In January, I was on a trip to New York. Being interested in food, I had lunch with my wife at Babbo, just to see how well Mario Batali really can cook. I started with an antipasti, of course — Calamari “alla Piastra”. And as I had a taste, I knew it was done well: fresh calamari; light, citrus notes…

…and I thought, “I wish this was more like Sandro’s Totani e Fagioli…”

Which was when I had to re-appraise Café Vignole, and its wonderful owner-chef, Sandro. I am not kidding around when I say that Sandro and his wife Nancy make food that may be favorably compared to a Michelin one-star restaurant, at least on some dishes.

It isn’t just the Totani e Fagioli, which is calamari and beans in a spicy and peppery tomato broth. It’s also his Rigatoni Al Ragu. My wife had the Pappardelle Bolognese at Babbo, and I can say from tasting experience that Mario and Sandro are hitting similar earthy, robust flavor notes in their meat sauces. Others have mentioned the baby back ribs — I avoided them for a while, because I associate ribs with sweet sauces. I tried them last night, though, and Nancy’s ribs instead use a wine-reduction rosemary and olive sauce, with roasted potatoes, and broccoli with garlic. I’m kicking myself for having waited so long.

There are dishes Batali does better than Sandro. (Lamb Belly. A magnificent seared lamb concentrate.) But what I’m saying is, within Sandro’s aspirations, they’re definitely comparable.

The setting for Café Vignole is a small, neighborhood spot just a few doors up 57th Ave S from Rainier Ave. In a 2012 review in Seattle Met, their writer Kathryn Robinson said, “With family in both the front and the back of the house, it’s the sort of spot that barely knows it’s a restaurant.” I love that phrase, “barely knows…”, and think it sums up Vignole and its comfortable, convivial family feel perfectly.

Which brings up the issue of pace. Our meal last night was over an hour and a half. That’s because this really does feel like a slice of Sandro’s native Lucca, and things don’t move at the rush,rush,rush of American life. This is a place to savor: Savor the food, savor the surroundings, savor your family, friends, and lovers who are with you.

I understand there are people who find the style of, say, Olive Garden comforting. This is not that place, though. This is a place to get as close to Italy as you can without buying a plane ticket.

Based on over 10 meals, the price has averaged $48 per person/per meal. But that’s counting everything — appetizer, entree, dessert, wine, tax, tip. The pastas are $15 each, and the meat entrees are in the low to mid $20’s. A single glass of wine and a bowl of the Totani would make a great light dinner for just about $20.

I give my stars on the basis of how far one should travel to try a place: Nationally, from elsewhere in a region, within your city, down the block, and run away.

Café Vignole, in my opinion, is a solid five stars. If you’re reading this in Chicago, or Atlanta, you should come on up and try it. Next time Mario comes from New York to visit his parents in Seattle at Salumi, he should make a side trip, and talk shop.

And if you’re already in Seattle, and it’s dinnertime between Tuesday and Saturday… It’s time to drive to 57th and Rainier for some pasta, carne, and vino.